NYFW 2025 SS26
Nicholas Aburn’s Debut Runway SS26 Collection
New York Fashion Week was all about fresh styles for the spring and summer 2026 collections. Some of the most exciting moments came from debut runway shows by Henry Zankov, Zane Li, and Rachel Scott, who presented at both Diotima and Proenza Schouler as the new creative director. Ralph Lauren, Ulla Johnson, and Michael Kors were also hard to miss, with their designs showing up often on the runways. This season, NYFW showed once again that it is more than just a showcase; it reflects culture, identity, and artistry.
Standout Collections: Old Favorites, New Frontiers
Brandon Maxwell’s show stood out to me. His spring/summer 2026 collection took on Americana style and gave it a modern, polished twist. There were cowhide prints next to sequined eveningwear and leather bolo ties with tailored jackets. The collection felt like a tribute to the American heartland, seen through the eyes of city life. I was surprised by how emotionally connected I felt to his story. It was nostalgic, but it never felt old-fashioned.
Michael Kors went for a relaxed, natural look. He chose earthy colors like espresso, ecru, and olive, moving toward a quieter kind of luxury. The collection featured perforated suedes, flowing tunics, and long silhouettes, all adding to its subtle sophistication. This show didn’t need to shout to make an impact; its message came through softly in silk and linen. It wasn’t the kind of show that screams, but it didn’t need to—it whispered in silk and linen.
The collection at Tory Burch experimented with contrasts between ease and edge, as well as between soft and rigid. Her use of deconstructed suiting, asymmetry, and negative space reflected the "complexity of women" in her designs. Her use of translucent knits atop sculptural undertones caught my attention in particular; it was a design language that spoke much with less.
Christian Siriano, meanwhile, created a riot of color, tulle, and volume in Macy's Herald Square. His dresses resembled fairy tales of fashion as they swept down the runway. It was unquestionably bold, but it wasn't subtle, and his audience expects and applauds that.
Debuts and Bold New Voices
One of the most talked-about presentations this season was from Off-White, now under the creative direction of Ib Kamara. The collection felt both reverent and revolutionary. Crochet knits, mirrored finishes, and surfer-inspired pieces formed an eclectic, multicultural narrative. Kamara’s debut was not just favorable—it was electric. His ability to honor Virgil Abloh’s vision while asserting his own aesthetic marked one of NYFW’s most significant creative transitions.
The embodiment of Brooklyn-cool, Rachel Comey, gave a personal, private performance in an alleyway. Her initial creations blended practical cutting with whimsical elements, such as feathery embellishments, peekaboo panels, and materials that begged for physical contact. "This is what it means to design for women who live in their clothes," I thought as I walked out of her exhibition.
Ralph Lauren SS26 Collection
Trends: Where Function Meets Fantasy
Contrast was emphasized this season. Maximalism was at one extreme, with fabrics that caught the light, experimental layering, and expansive silhouettes. Dreamy costumes with feathers, loose tailoring, and delicate materials were showcased by Prabal Gurung, who drew inspiration from Angels in America. His collection explored fashion as a lyrical and political medium, as well as metamorphosis, queerness, and optimism.
On the contrary, coastal simplicity and utility dressing made a big comeback. Designers like Comey and Simkhai prioritized natural textures, airy materials, and flexibility of mobility. The fantasy of summer freedom was encapsulated by Simkhai's surf-chic aesthetic, which included lightweight outfits, raw denim, and beaded fringe.
All color tales preferred subdued brights and neutrals. While nighttime looks experimented with iridescent whites, gentle lavenders, and sea-glass greens, daywear was dominated by earth tones, such as clay, sand, and moss. Blends of linen, sheer knits, slubbed silks, perforated leather, and handwoven cotton were popular fabrics. Despite their flirtation with extravagance, designers obviously kept wearability in mind.
Fashion as Cultural Commentary
The dramatic undercurrent that pervaded so many collections was what most impressed me. Fashion was not pursuing virality here. It was fashion using craft, vision, and sensitivity to respond to identity politics, cultural exhaustion, and climate fear. Shows like Off-White's and Gurung's did more than just introduce fashion; they reinterpreted beauty, questioned binary thinking, and conveyed tales.
As usual, street style served as its own runway. Outside the performances, guests experimented with bold accessories, exaggerated tailoring, and Y2K memories. Sheer outfits clashed with cowboy boots. Vintage couture meets techwear. Everyone appeared to be playing along, fusing algorithm-aware style with individual expression.
Michael Khors SS26 Collection
My Final Thoughts
I was reminded by NYFW SS26 of the reasons I love returning, not only to the runways but also to the enthusiasm that permeates every street corner, showroom, and sidewalk. Ideas turn into clothes there, and clothes become movements. This season demonstrated once more that fashion is about who we are becoming, not simply what we wear, whether it is via Kamara's inventiveness, Burch's restraint, or Siriano's drama.
